Holey Moley Crochet Shawl Pattern

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This airy crochet shawl is built from open chain spaces and clusters of double crochet, creating a light, lacy fabric that shows off the color changes in multicolor yarn. Its repeating rows make it a satisfying project for crocheters who know the basic stitches and want to practice working into chain spaces. Make it for cool evenings, travel, or a thoughtful handmade gift; the rhythmic pattern is easy to pick up once you understand how the rows fit together.

Why you’ll love this pattern

The Holey Moley Shawl has an appealing balance of openwork and fuller crochet clusters. The chain spaces give it a breathable drape, while the groups of double crochet add visual texture and help the pattern feel substantial enough to wear. Multicolor yarn brings its own variation, so you can enjoy the changing shades without needing to switch skeins intentionally.

The repeating Rows 2–5 are useful practice for reading a crochet pattern and recognizing where to place stitches. You’ll work into chain spaces rather than trying to find individual stitches along every row, which can make the fabric easier to read as it grows. The shawl is also portable: take your yarn and hook along, and work a few pattern repeats whenever you have time.

“After I understood where each cluster went, the rows became easy to follow. The open spaces give the shawl a lovely light feel, and the multicolor yarn makes the pattern interesting without extra color changes.”

How this crochet pattern comes together

You’ll crochet a shawl in rows, beginning with a foundation chain and working a lacy pattern of double crochet clusters and chain spaces. Row 1 establishes the spaces and stitch groups. Rows 2–5 then create the repeating texture, with wider groups of double crochet worked into selected spaces and chains bridging between them.

The pattern directs you to continue repeating Rows 2–5 until the piece measures 16 inches from the beginning, then work Row 2. After that, a final row of single crochet and chain spaces finishes the top edge. The instructions do not specify the shawl’s finished width or overall dimensions, so use the 16-inch measurement as the stopping point given in the pattern rather than assuming a particular finished size.

This project is best suited to an adventurous beginner or an intermediate crocheter. You should be comfortable making chain stitches, double crochet, and single crochet, as well as turning at the end of a row. The main skill to practice is working accurately into chain spaces and identifying the correct turning-chain stitch at each row end. Completion time depends on your crochet pace, the final width, and how frequently you work on it; the repeated rows are straightforward once established.

Materials you’ll need

• Yarn: RED HEART® “Heart & Sole™ with Aloe,” 8 balls, color 3965 (multicolor)
• Crochet hook: 5.5 mm [US I-9]
• Finishing tool: Yarn needle

The pattern specifies eight balls of the named yarn. Check the labels when purchasing to ensure the balls match the listed yarn and colorway. If you choose a different yarn, aim for a similar weight and check the yarn label for suitable care instructions. A change in yarn fiber, thickness, or yardage can affect the shawl’s size, drape, texture, and total yarn requirement. You may also need to adjust your hook to achieve a fabric that is open and flexible rather than stiff.

The 5.5 mm hook is the specified size, so begin with it unless your fabric is unusually tight or loose. There is no gauge measurement provided in the instructions. If the look or size of your finished fabric matters, crochet a small sample using the pattern stitches and check that it drapes the way you want before beginning the full shawl.

Step-by-step instructions

Abbreviations and notes

• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• sp/sps = space/spaces
• turn = turn your work to begin the next row
• ch-3 space = the space made by chaining 3 in an earlier row
• ch-2 space = the space made by chaining 2 in an earlier row
• ch-1 space = the space made by chaining 1 in an earlier row

The chain at the beginning of some rows counts as a double crochet, as specified in the instructions. Work into the named chain space, not into the chain stitches themselves, unless the row tells you to work into a chain or the top of a turning chain. The asterisk marks a section to repeat as directed.

1. Make the foundation and work Row 1

Make a foundation chain. The pattern does not provide a starting-chain count, so use the count given with your original pattern copy if available.

Work as follows:

1. Make 2 dc in the 5th chain from the hook.
2. Chain 3, then skip 5 chains.
3. Make 2 dc in the next chain. Make another 2 dc in the following chain.
4. Chain 3 and skip 5 chains.
5. Repeat the instructions between the asterisks—2 dc in each of the next 2 chains, then ch 3 and skip 5 chains—until 2 chains remain.
6. Make 2 dc in the next chain, then 1 dc in the last chain.
7. Turn.

The spacing established in this row creates the openings used for the later clusters. Keep the skipped chains and chain-3 sections consistent so the spaces stay regular.

2. Work Row 2

1. Chain 3. This chain counts as a dc.
2. In the next ch-3 space, work (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) all in the same space.
3. Repeat the instruction in parentheses—4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc in the next ch-3 space—across the row until you reach the last stitch.
4. Make 1 dc in the top of the turning chain.
5. Turn.

Each set of 4 dc on either side of a chain-2 space forms a broad cluster. Take care to place both groups in the same chain space.

3. Work Row 3

1. Chain 5. This counts as 1 dc and ch 2.
2. Make 4 dc in the next ch-2 space.
3. Chain 3, then make 4 dc in the next ch-2 space.
4. Repeat the previous instruction—ch 3, then 4 dc in the next ch-2 space—across the row.
5. At the last stitch, chain 2 and make 1 dc in the top of the ch-3.
6. Turn.

The ch-3 spaces formed in this row are used for the larger clusters in the next row. Check that the final chain and dc are made into the correct turning-chain point, as this helps keep the edge even.

4. Work Row 4

1. Chain 4. This counts as 1 dc and ch 1.
2. Make 4 dc in the ch-2 space.
3. In the next ch-3 space, work (4 dc, ch 2, 4 dc) all in that same space.
4. Repeat the instruction in parentheses in each next ch-3 space until you reach the last space.
5. Make 4 dc in the last ch-2 space.
6. Chain 1, then make 1 dc in the 3rd chain of the ch-5.
7. Turn.

The first and last spaces are worked differently from the central ch-3 spaces. Follow the edge instructions closely rather than repeating the central cluster all the way to the end.

5. Work Row 5

1. Chain 3.
2. Make 2 dc in the ch-1 space.
3. Chain 3.
4. Make 4 dc in the next ch-3 space, then chain 3.
5. Repeat the previous instruction—4 dc in the next ch-3 space, then ch 3—across the row until you reach the last space.
6. Make 2 dc in the ch-1 space.
7. Make 1 dc in the 3rd chain of the ch-4.
8. Turn.

This row transitions between the more substantial clusters and the open spaces. Keep the chain-3 sections relaxed but even; overly tight chains can pull the fabric out of shape.

6. Repeat the pattern rows

Repeat Rows 2–5 until the shawl measures 16 inches from the beginning. End by working Row 2.

Measure from the starting edge along the direction the rows progress, keeping the fabric laid flat without stretching it. The 16-inch measurement is the stopping point specified by the pattern. Because no finished width or gauge is supplied, your result may vary with yarn, tension, and the way you measure.

7. Work the finishing row

After completing Row 2 at the stated stopping point:

1. Chain 1.
2. Make 1 sc in the dc.
3. Chain 3, then make 1 sc in the next ch-2 space.
4. Chain 5, then make 1 sc in the next ch-2 space.
5. Repeat the ch-5 and sc sequence across the row until you reach the last space.
6. Chain 3, then make 1 sc in the top of the ch-3.
7. Fasten off.
8. Use a yarn needle to weave in the ends securely.

The finishing row alternates shorter and longer chain sections, so follow the sequence as written. Avoid pulling the chains tight when fastening off; a relaxed edge will sit more comfortably against the shawl.

Ways to use your finished project

Wear the shawl over a top or dress when you want a light layer for a cool room, an evening outdoors, or a breezy day. The openwork makes it a useful accessory when a heavy wrap would feel too warm. Try draping it over your shoulders, wrapping it loosely around your neck, or pinning it with a shawl pin if you want the fabric to stay in place.

The multicolor yarn gives the finished piece a distinctive handmade look, which makes it a thoughtful birthday, holiday, or thank-you gift for someone who enjoys wearable accessories. If gifting it, include a small care note based on the yarn label so the recipient knows how to wash and store it.

For craft fairs or handmade-shop listings, photograph the shawl laid flat and then worn to show both the stitch pattern and its drape. Include accurate fiber and care information from the yarn label, and describe the actual finished dimensions rather than estimating them.

How to care for your crochet project

Follow the care instructions on the yarn label for RED HEART® “Heart & Sole™ with Aloe.” Yarn care depends on the exact fiber content, and the pattern information does not provide that content or washing directions. If you use a substitute yarn, its own label should guide how you clean the finished shawl.

For gentle handling, wash the shawl in cool or lukewarm water using an appropriate mild detergent if the label permits washing. Avoid vigorous rubbing or twisting, which can stretch the open chain spaces. Support the fabric with both hands when lifting it from water, and press out excess moisture with a towel rather than wringing it.

Reshape the damp shawl on a clean, flat surface, smoothing the edges and openwork without pulling them. Let it dry flat unless the yarn label gives different instructions. Blocking can help the lace-like spaces settle, but use a method suitable for the yarn fiber; do not apply direct heat or steam unless the label confirms it is safe.

Store the shawl clean and fully dry, folded loosely in a drawer or on a shelf. Avoid hanging it for long periods, as the weight of the fabric may stretch the open stitches. If the yarn is prone to pilling, reduce friction from rough bags, jewelry, and repeated rubbing.

Tips for success

• Use a row tracker. Mark each completed row or use a simple four-row repeat chart. Since Rows 2–5 repeat, a tracker helps you know where you are after setting the project down.
• Keep the row edges in view. The turning chains count as stitches in Rows 2–4 where noted. Check the final stitch carefully before turning so the shawl does not gradually widen or narrow.
• Recognize the spaces. A ch-3 space, ch-2 space, and ch-1 space are not interchangeable. Look for the size of the opening and the row below it before placing a cluster.
• Count the cluster parts. When an instruction calls for 4 dc, count each stitch as you make it. In the larger group, the structure is 4 dc, ch 2, and 4 dc in one space.
• Use a removable marker if needed. Place one in the turning chain or edge stitch at the end of a row. This can be especially helpful while learning which chain to work into on the following row.
• Check the fabric after a few repeats. Lay the shawl flat and confirm that the sides are reasonably even and the chain spaces remain open. If the edge is pulling, check your turning-chain placement and chain tension.
• Do not tug the chain spaces into shape. Keep chains consistent and relaxed. Very tight chains can make the lace stiff; very loose chains can look uneven beside the dc clusters.
• Measure without stretching. Check the 16-inch stopping point with the project resting naturally on a flat surface. Pulling the fabric while measuring can give you an inaccurate result.
• Finish ends securely. Use a yarn needle to weave in each tail through several stitches, changing direction where practical. Avoid drawing the yarn so tightly that the openwork puckers.

Creative variations

• Choose another multicolor shade. A different colorway can change the overall mood while keeping the same stitch pattern. Confirm that your replacement yarn has similar thickness and yardage; a different weight may alter the shawl’s size and drape.
• Try a solid color. A single shade makes the clusters and chain spaces easier to see. It can also create a calmer look, though the texture may be less visually varied than with multicolor yarn.
• Adjust the width carefully. The starting-chain count is not specified in the supplied instructions, so do not guess a new count without checking the original pattern setup. If you have the complete starting directions, any width adjustment should preserve the pattern’s repeat and edge setup.
• Change the length. The instructions call for repeating Rows 2–5 until the piece measures 16 inches from the beginning, then ending with Row 2. Making it longer or shorter will change the finished dimensions and may change how the shawl drapes when worn. It may also affect the amount of yarn required.
• Add a border only after checking the edge. A simple edging could provide a more defined outline, but the pattern already includes a finishing row. An additional border may make the edge heavier or less flexible, so test a small section before continuing.
• Use a coordinating yarn for a border. A contrast shade can frame the multicolor fabric, but it will create a visible color change and require suitable yarn of a compatible weight. Secure the new yarn neatly and avoid an overly tight edge.
• Test a different hook size with a sample. A larger hook may create more open fabric and a softer drape; a smaller one may make it denser and firmer. Either change can affect finished size and yarn use, so swatch first rather than switching hooks midway.

Frequently asked questions

Is this crochet shawl suitable for beginners?

It can suit an adventurous beginner who already knows how to chain, make double crochet and single crochet, and turn rows. The most challenging parts are identifying the right chain spaces and keeping the turning-chain edges even. If you are new to crochet, practice the clusters on a small swatch before starting the full piece.

What yarn is specified for the pattern?

The materials list calls for RED HEART® “Heart & Sole™ with Aloe,” 8 balls in color 3965 (multicolor). The supplied instructions do not state the yarn’s fiber content or weight, so check the product label for those details and care directions.

Can I use a different yarn?

Yes, but choose a yarn with a similar thickness and consider how its fiber affects drape and care. A heavier yarn may make the shawl thicker and larger, while a finer yarn may make it lighter and smaller. Substitutions can also change the amount of yarn needed, so make a sample and check the label’s yardage before purchasing.

Can I use a different hook size?

The pattern specifies a 5.5 mm [US I-9] hook. You can test another size if your fabric is too tight or too loose, but a hook change can alter the drape, dimensions, and yarn requirement. Try the intended stitch pattern with the alternate hook first and compare the fabric before committing.

How much yarn do I need?

The listed amount is 8 balls of RED HEART® “Heart & Sole™ with Aloe” in color 3965. The pattern information does not provide yardage per ball, so compare the ball labels if you are substituting yarn. Buying extra from the same dye lot can help prevent a color difference if more yarn is needed.

How do I know when to stop the repeating rows?

Repeat Rows 2–5 until the project measures 16 inches from the beginning, then work Row 2 before starting the finishing row. Measure the fabric flat without stretching it. The instructions do not give the finished width or other dimensions.

Why is my shawl edge becoming uneven?

The most common causes are missing the last stitch, working into the wrong turning-chain loop, or accidentally adding an extra stitch at the row edge. Recheck where the row says to work the final dc, and consider marking the edge stitch with a removable marker. Also make sure you are turning after every row as instructed.

What should I do if the shawl curls?

First check that your chain tension is relaxed and that you are following the correct space and turning-chain instructions. A small amount of curling can sometimes ease with careful reshaping or suitable blocking, depending on the yarn fiber. Follow the yarn-label guidance, and do not use heat or steam unless it is safe for that yarn.

How should I wash the finished shawl?

Use the care instructions on the yarn label. If the label allows washing, handle the shawl gently, avoid wringing it, reshape it flat, and let it dry according to the fiber’s care requirements. Supporting the openwork while wet helps prevent it from stretching.

Can I sell shawls made from this pattern?

The supplied pattern information does not state whether finished items may be sold. Check the original designer’s usage terms before selling finished shawls, and follow any requirements for credit, photography, or product descriptions stated there.

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