Crochet Dropstitch Cocoon Sweater Tutorial

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This dropstitch cocoon sweater is made from a generously sized, striped fabric panel that folds in half and is seamed at the sides to create armholes. Its long broomstick-lace loops add an airy, open texture between solid crochet rows, while three coordinating yarn colors give the fabric a bold, balanced look. The simple construction makes it a satisfying project for crocheters ready to try a new technique, and the relaxed shape is comfortable for layering.

Why You’ll Love This Pattern

The sweater is built as a large rectangle rather than as separate front, back, and sleeve pieces. That means there is no sleeve shaping to manage, and the main fabric is worked in repeated rows. The dropstitch sections provide the visual interest: long loops are picked up on a broomstick lace pin or large knitting needle, then secured in the following row.

This is a useful project for practicing consistent loop size and working with multiple colors. The pattern also offers six size options, with finished widths and lengths that vary by size. Once the rectangle is complete, the border gives the edges a neat finish before a simple side seam creates the armholes.

“I enjoyed the steady rhythm of the repeating rows, and the broomstick loops made the fabric feel special without complicated shaping. Keeping the loops even took a little attention, but the finished cocoon sweater was worth it.”

Before You Begin

You will make one rectangular panel, work a four-round border around its outer edge, then fold the piece lengthwise and sew two short sections of the side edges together. The unsewn sections form the armholes.

The fabric alternates between single crochet rows, broomstick-lace loop rows, and double crochet rows. The broomstick-lace technique is the defining feature: you draw up elongated loops and place them on a large pin or knitting needle, then crochet into those loops to secure them. The pattern works without turning between rows, so take care to follow the stated direction and keep the right side facing as indicated.

This project is best suited to an adventurous beginner or intermediate crocheter who is comfortable with basic crochet stitches, fastening off, joining yarn, and seaming. If you are new to broomstick lace, practice the loop-pickup and stitch rows on a small swatch first. The amount of time needed will depend on your pace and experience; the wide panel and repeated rows make it a substantial wearable project rather than a quick accessory.

Materials You’ll Need

Yarn

Use RED HEART® Soft® yarn in three colors:

• Color A: 9870 Deep Sea — 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) balls
• Color B: 9523 Dark Leaf — 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) balls
• Color C: 9518 Teal — 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3) balls

The quantities are listed in order for the six sizes. Check your yarn labels for fiber content and care instructions. If you substitute yarn, choose a similar weight and make a gauge swatch: a different yarn can change the panel’s dimensions, drape, and yarn requirements.

Hook and tools

• Susan Bates® crochet hook: 4 mm [US G-6]
• Size 35 broomstick-lace pin, or a size 35 [19 mm] knitting needle
• 4 stitch markers
• Yarn needle

Step-by-Step Instructions

Sizes and finished measurements

Directions are written for Small, with other sizes shown in parentheses in this order: Small (Medium, Large, 1X, 2X, 3X).

• To fit bust: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54) in. [86.5 (96.5, 106.5, 117, 127, 137) cm]
• Finished width: 42 (44, 46, 48, 50, 52) in. [106.5 (112, 117, 122, 127, 132) cm]
• Finished length: 40 (40, 45, 45, 50, 50) in. [101.5 (101.5, 114.5, 114.5, 127, 127) cm]

Choose the size based on the intended fit and compare the finished measurements with a garment you already like. The finished width is generous relative to the listed bust measurement, which supports the relaxed cocoon shape.

Abbreviations

• ch: chain
• sc: single crochet
• dc: double crochet
• st(s): stitch(es)
• Fdc: foundation double crochet
• RS: right side

A foundation double crochet creates the starting chain and first row of double crochet stitches together. If you are not familiar with it, use your preferred foundation-double-crochet method and count carefully as you work.

Main panel

1. Row 1 (RS): With Color A, work 123 (130, 137, 143, 150, 156) foundation double crochet stitches. Fasten off.

2. Row 2 (RS): Do not turn. Join Color C with a single crochet in the back loop of the first stitch. Work a single crochet in the back loop of each remaining stitch across.

3. Row 3 (loop pickup row): Chain 1, but do not turn. Hold the broomstick pin in your non-hook hand. Enlarge the loop on your hook and place it on the pin. Work from left to right; if you crochet left-handed, work from right to left. Beginning in the second stitch, repeat the following across: insert the hook in the next stitch and draw up a loop, chain 1, then enlarge the loop on the hook and place it on the pin. Make 123 (130, 137, 143, 150, 156) broomstick loops.

   Carefully slide all loops off the broomstick pin. The chain at the base of each stitch anchors the loop and helps keep it from unraveling. Keep the loops in order as you remove them.

4. Row 4 (stitch row): Do not turn. Insert the hook into the first broomstick loop; this is the last loop placed on the pin. Bring the working yarn up to the same height as the loops. Yarn over and pull up a loop, chain 1, then work a single crochet in the same broomstick loop. Without twisting the loops, work a single crochet in each remaining broomstick loop across. You should have 123 (130, 137, 143, 150, 156) single crochet stitches. Fasten off.

5. Row 5 (RS): Do not turn. Draw up a loop of Color A in the back loop of the first single crochet. Chain 2; this chain does not count as a stitch. Work a double crochet in the back loop of each stitch across. Fasten off.

6. Rows 6–8: With Color B, repeat Rows 2–4. Fasten off.

7. Row 9: Repeat Row 5.

8. Continue the body sequence: Repeat Rows 2–9 another 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8) times. Then repeat Rows 2–5 once more. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Border

Keep the right side facing as you work each round. The first round is spaced around the outside edge; later rounds are worked into the back loops of the previous round.

1. Round 1: With Color A, draw up a loop in any stitch on the outer edge. Chain 2, then work double crochet stitches evenly around the entire outer edge. At each corner, work 3 double crochet stitches. Along the row ends, work 2 double crochet stitches in the ends of double crochet rows, 1 double crochet in the ends of single crochet rows, and 4 double crochet stitches in the ends of dropstitch loop rows. Join with a slip stitch in the first double crochet. Fasten off.

2. Round 2: With the right side facing, draw up a loop of Color B in the back loop of any stitch from Round 1. Chain 2 and work a double crochet in the back loop of every stitch around. At each corner, work 3 double crochet stitches in the center double crochet of the 3-double-crochet corner group. Join with a slip stitch in the first double crochet. Fasten off.

3. Round 3: With Color C, repeat Round 2. Fasten off.

4. Round 4: With the right side facing, join Color A with a single crochet in the back loop of any stitch. Work a single crochet in the back loop of each stitch around. At each corner, work 3 single crochet stitches in the center double crochet of the 3-double-crochet corner group. Join with a slip stitch in the first single crochet. Fasten off.

Assembly and finishing

1. Fold the piece in half lengthwise, bringing the side edges together. The folded edge is not a lower corner.
2. Starting at one lower corner—not at a corner along the fold—sew the two side edges together for 10 (10, 12, 12, 13½, 13½) in. [25.5 (25.5, 30.5, 30.5, 34.5, 34.5) cm].
3. Leave the remaining sections of the side edges open to form the armholes. Repeat on the opposite side, matching the seam length.
4. Weave in any remaining ends.

Ways to Wear Your Finished Cocoon Sweater

Wear the sweater over a fitted long-sleeved top, a T-shirt, or a simple dress. Its open dropstitch fabric is well suited to layering, while the relaxed shape makes it a comfortable extra layer at home or outdoors in mild weather. The striped colors can be treated as the main feature, so simple garments underneath help the texture stand out.

This project can also make a thoughtful handmade gift for someone who enjoys loose, easy-to-layer clothing. Before gifting, compare the intended wearer’s preferred fit with the finished measurements, especially the width and length. If you sell finished garments made from a pattern, check the original designer’s usage terms first; the pattern information here does not state whether sales are permitted.

Caring for Your Crochet Sweater

Follow the care instructions on the RED HEART® Soft® yarn label, since the yarn’s recommended washing method depends on its fiber content. If you have replaced the yarn, follow the substitute yarn’s label instead.

For the first wash, handle the sweater gently and avoid hot water. If the label permits machine washing, use a gentle cycle and place the garment in a mesh laundry bag to limit snagging. Otherwise, hand wash it in cool or lukewarm water with a mild detergent. Do not wring or twist the fabric, as pulling can stretch the open dropstitch sections.

Support the sweater with both hands when lifting it from the water. Press out excess moisture with a clean towel, then lay it flat to dry and reshape the edges and armholes. Avoid hanging it while wet; the weight of the water can lengthen the fabric. Store it clean and fully dry, folded rather than hung, to help the cocoon shape hold up over time.

Tips for a Neat Result

• Count the foundation stitches. The starting row determines the width of the panel. Use the count for your chosen size and recount before fastening off.
• Keep the broomstick loops consistent. Draw each loop to the same height on the pin. Uneven loops make the dropstitch texture look irregular and may affect the fabric’s drape.
• Do not twist the loops. When you work Row 4, check that each loop lies naturally before crocheting into it. Twisted loops can make that row look bunched or uneven.
• Follow “do not turn” carefully. The pattern keeps the work oriented in the same direction. Turning out of habit can alter the appearance and placement of the rows.
• Track color changes. Fasten off where instructed and join the next color in the stated stitch. Weaving in ends as you go can make finishing more manageable, but secure each end so it does not pull out of the open fabric.
• Space the border evenly. Row ends do not always accept the same number of stitches. Follow the specific counts for double crochet row ends, single crochet row ends, and dropstitch loop row ends to help the border lie flat.
• Mark your corner points. Stitch markers can help you keep track of the corners while working the border, especially as you place the 3-stitch corner groups.
• Measure before seaming. Lay the bordered panel flat and locate the lower corners. Measure the seam length for your size on both sides so the armholes are even.
• Check the fit as you assemble. Pin or clip the side edges temporarily before sewing. This lets you confirm that the armholes are placed evenly and that the folded piece sits comfortably.

Ideas for Personalizing the Pattern

You can change the color arrangement while keeping the same stitch sequence. Try a quieter combination of two close shades with a contrasting border, or use seasonal colors for a distinct look. Keep enough of each color for the stated sections and border; changing the color placement may alter how much yarn you use in each shade, even if the overall quantity is similar.

A different yarn can also change the character of the sweater. A yarn of similar weight is the safest place to start, but make a swatch that includes the broomstick-lace rows and check its dimensions and drape before committing. Thicker or heavier yarn can make the fabric denser and larger; a lighter yarn may create a softer, more delicate panel. Either change can affect the finished measurements and yarn requirements.

For a more personal finish, use a coordinating palette, add a small embroidered motif on a solid section, or attach a simple appliqué. Keep any added decoration light and securely sewn, since heavy embellishments can pull on the open texture. Adjusting the panel width or length may be possible, but it changes the finished fit and should be planned before starting; the pattern does not provide separate instructions for custom sizing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is this dropstitch cocoon sweater suitable for beginners?

It is a good choice for a crocheter who knows basic stitches and wants to learn a new texture, but it may not be the easiest first project. You will need to manage long loops, work without turning, change colors, crochet a border, and seam the sides. Practice the broomstick-lace rows on a small swatch if they are new to you.

What yarn does the pattern use?

The pattern specifies RED HEART® Soft® in Deep Sea, Dark Leaf, and Teal. If you use another yarn, choose a similar weight and make a swatch first. Differences in yarn thickness and drape can change the finished size and the look of the loops.

Can I use a different crochet hook?

The pattern calls for a 4 mm [US G-6] hook. A different hook may change the stitch size, fabric density, and finished dimensions. If you substitute a hook, make a swatch that includes the main stitch pattern and compare its size and feel before starting the full panel.

What can I use instead of a broomstick-lace pin?

The instructions allow a size 35 [19 mm] knitting needle as an alternative to the size 35 broomstick-lace pin. The important point is to use a tool that supports the long loops evenly. A different diameter may change the loop size and texture, so check your swatch before proceeding.

How much yarn do I need?

The required quantities vary by size and color:

• Color A: 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) balls
• Color B: 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) balls
• Color C: 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3) balls

The figures correspond to Small, Medium, Large, 1X, 2X, and 3X. Buy the amount for your chosen size, and consider getting an extra ball if you are substituting yarn or expect to make changes.

How do I make the sweater larger or smaller?

Choose from the six sizes listed and use the matching foundation stitch count, repeat count, and measurements. Custom sizing requires changes to the panel dimensions and possibly the number of repeat sequences. Because the instructions do not give a custom-sizing formula, make and measure a swatch before adapting the stitch counts.

How do I keep the border from curling or flaring?

Work the border evenly around the fabric and follow the specified stitch counts at corners and row ends. Too few stitches can draw the edge inward; too many can make it ruffle. If the border does not lie flat, check the spacing around each edge before continuing. Gentle reshaping during drying may help, but blocking cannot correct a substantially uneven stitch count.

How are the armholes made?

Fold the finished, bordered rectangle in half lengthwise. From each lower corner, sew the side edges together for the seam length listed for your size: 10, 10, 12, 12, 13½, or 13½ inches. Leave the rest of each side edge open to form an armhole.

How should I wash the finished sweater?

Use the care instructions on the yarn label. In general, gentle handling and cool or lukewarm water help protect the open loop texture. Support the sweater when it is wet, avoid wringing, and lay it flat to dry rather than hanging it.

Can I sell sweaters made from this pattern?

The instructions provided do not specify whether finished items may be sold. Check the original designer’s usage terms before listing or selling a sweater made from the pattern.

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